The
Auvergne
is not renowned as one of the most famous regions of France in terms of
wining and dining; but like many other regions of the world, it is
nonetheless a region with plenty to offer when it comes to regional
specialities. The region also produces some very reasonable wines, and
is relatively well endowed in good restaurants.....
Auvergne regional specialities.A
profoundly rural and mountainous region, the Auvergne is one of the
leading French regions (some indeed claim that it is the leading
region) when it comes to cheese. A cheeseboard made up exclusively of
Auvergne cheeses can hold its own against a board of cheeses from any
other French region, both in terms of variety and of quality.
The principal
cheeses of the Auvergne:
Pressed
cheeses: Cantal
A very tasty uncooked pressed cheese from the Auvergne mountains,
Cantal is a cheese that many consider to be quite close to an
English farmhouse cheddar or chester. A lot of this
"appellation
contrôlée" cheese is made on farms, but
local
dairies in the region also produce it in large quantities. (Some also
produce Cheddar for export to the UK!)
Cantal comes
most commonly in two varieties: "jeune" (young) and "entre deux"
(between two), meaning cheese that has matured for longer. This
cheese's strength and taste increase with ageing, and generally
speaking cantal cheese is stronger than cheddar.
Two smaller areas within the Cantal department produce specific
appellations of their own,
Salers
and
Laguiole.
These cheeses - made from the milk of cows grazing at high altitude,
tend to be more expensive than generic Cantal, and are generally aged
longer. They are unpasturised cheeses made only during the summer, and
only from the milk of cows grazing in the high pastures.
Blue
cheesesBleu
d'Auvergne / Auvergne blue
; Possibly the most famous of all French blue cheeses, Bleu d'Auvergne
is manufactured through most of upland Auvergne. It is a cheese that
can vary considerably in taste and strength, depending on how old it is
and how it has matured; but a good Auvergne Blue can be spread on bread
like butter.
La
Fourme d'Ambert
is a mild blue cheese , often with an almost nutty flavour.
No-one
should find this too strong. It is produced in the sector
of Ambert in the Forez mountains of the Puy de
Dôme.
Soft
cheeses. Saint
Nectaire
(AOC) can be one of the greatest of French cheeses - but it is
also a cheese that varies considerably in quality and taste. To start
with there are two distinct types, the farm variety and the dairy
variety. The farm variety is generally better and more expensive, the
dairy variety, usually found in supermarkets, is frequently sold too
young. When this cheese is young, it is quite dry and hard; a properly
matured Saint Nectaire should be soft and elastic, with a slight
tendency to flow if left at room temperature. One does not eat the rind
of a Saint Nectaire.,
Some
other Auvergne cheeses Savaron;
is a dairy cheese that is quite similar to
dairy-produced Saint
Nectaire, and is an appellation contrôlée cheese
dating
from 1945.
Bleu
de Laqueille;
is the original Auvergne blue cheese; legend has it that a farmer,
called Antoine Roussel, produced the first Lequeille blue in
1850, after leaving a lump of fresh cottage cheese in a draw with some
crumbs of mouldy bread.
Another similar cheese is
Montagne, which
closely resembles Savaron.
Les vins d'Auvergne
Auvergne does not produce
any Appellation Contrôlée (AOC) wines, but several
VDQS
wines (Vin délimité de qualité
supérieure), the best-known of which are from
Saint-Pourçain
sur Sioule, in the Allier department; these are light red
and white wines, from the Gamay,
Tressalier, Chardonnay and Pinot noir grape varieties.
Further
south in the Puy
de Dôme, the
Côtes
d'Auvergne
area, lying between the villages of Madargues
(north
of Riom) & Boudes (south of Clermont Ferrand)
produces
mostly light red wines.
Here and there, in areas lying below
about
600 metres, there are other small vineyards, mostly producing for local
and individual consumption and on a very small scale. For example, the
Allier Valley area, between Brioude and Langeac in the haute Loire, was
a big wine-growing area until the late 19th century; it was the last
wine-growing area in France to be killed off by the Phylloxera epidemic
that totally destroyed French vineyards in the late 19th century.
Auvergne's vineyards are
among the oldest in France, and in the Middle Ages they supplied a lot
of wine to Paris and the north of France. The wine was shipped down the
Allier and Loire rivers on rafts, as far as Orleans, where it was
despatched by road to Paris. By the time it reached Orleans, some of
the wine was quite undrinkable, and could not be sent on to the capital
- which explains why the city of Orleans is now famed throughout France
as the nation's vinegar capital.
Auvergne specialities Les lentilles du Puy / le Puy
lentilsCultivated
for over 2000 years in the region of Le Puy en Velay, the "green
lentils" are still produced using no chemical fertilizers. The
"Appellation contrôlée" production area covers
88 communes in the Haute Loire department,
from Saint
Georges
d'Aurac or Retournac in the north, to Pradelles in the south.
Lentils are an extremely nutritious and tasty vegetable, and a rich
source of vegetable protein.
La
potée auvergnate / Auvergne hotpotLa
potée
auvergnate is a classic country dish made up of simple and easily
available ingredients; cabbages, potatoes, bacon, pork and sausage.
Sometimes white beans are added. After an initial stewing, the cabbages
are removed from the pot, then drained and fried up with pieces of
bacon. .
Les
TripouxAuvergne tripe...
PountiA
delicious type of meat loaf, with herbs, and stuffed with prunes. This
speciality of the Cantal can be eaten hot or cold.
Auvergne hamCured
raw ham from the mountains of Auvergne. In some rural inns, you can
still get ham that has been produced and cured on the spot or in the
local village.